I've been using a halyard attachment detailed by Michael Storer at
http://www.storerboatplans.com/GIS/GISRigging.html. With a small block, the line was far enough from the yard that it hung down too far. Since my yard is fairly light and easy to raise I swapped the block for some wood with a sheave made from a grommet.
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| Halyard attachment. The sail is reefed. |
It worked better but I'm still not real happy with it. When the sail is reefed the yard ends up too far aft and leads to some weather helm. I'm going to go ahead and make a halyard traveler hook like the following:
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| http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?164376-Ahoy-Sooty-Tern-builders |
I've been very happy with the downhaul arrangement (blue line) with the exception of hooking it up, as it's a bit fussy to feed the pin through the pad eye on the mast partner.
The mast gate is working ok. I may go to a lashing system, but I do like the ease of the gate. The red line is my halyard. It' works fine to cleat it off toe the belaying pin, but I think I'm going to make a cleat and attach it to the mast so I can speed up rigging and derigging by keeping the halyard attached to the mast.
The downhaul is led through a hole in the mast partner to a turning block:
This is then led aft to a cam cleat on the aft of the centerboard case below the center thwart.
It's easy to adjust while underway, but stays out of the way.
The following details the tiller and rudder configuration. The pivot bolt is 3/8" because that was the size that had a long enough un-threaded length to pass through the rudder so it wouldn't have to pivot on threads. I used nylon washers on each side of the bolt.
The rudder uphaul threads through a hole on the aft of the tiller, which keeps the rudder from coming out of the case. The downhaul is led up through the hardware to a fairlead. I used a rasp to round inner piece of the front of the rudder case so when the rudder is up the downhaul will slide smoothly as the rudder is pulled down into place. The downhaul is then led forward to a quick-release cleat. It's not really needed as there is enough friction on the rudder from the case that it stays down, but that's mostly because I didn't check my fit and got my case a shade too narrow.
My centerboard case rod is 1/4" brass. I used a propane torch to heat the ends to soften it. One end got hammered flat and then drilled to take a short length of the rod that sits between 2 copper pieces made from flat bar that were attached to the centerboard.
I epoxied in a small piece of copper for the rod to press against to protect the wood.
This shows an earlier plan for the rod attachment, which I didn't like once I got everything put together, but the copper pieces were left the same.
At the front of the case, there is another piece of copper for the rod to press against.
I made up a wood handle to lift the centerboard.
The glue line is because originally the handle was flat on the bottom, but because the handle isn't vertical when the centerboard is down, it didn't lay flat on the case top, so I added a rounded piece so it doesn't matter what the angle is. A bit of vb cord is tied around the handle and led through a pad eye. This then goes to a clam cleat on the aft of the case.
It's then led back forward to the handle. The allows me to cleat the centerboard down or up using the cleat.
